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HERE & NOW PORTLAND Stacey Givens, owner of The Side Yard Farm & Kitchen. FOOD TOWN, USA Portland has become one of the nation’s top culinary cities, thanks to neighborhoods such as Cully. SHAWN LINEHAN By Drew Tyson To get a sense of Portland’s love affair with food, look no farther than The Side Yard Farm & Kitchen—one of Portland’s most unique eating experiences. This secluded, yet inviting, establish- ment can be found in Cully, the city’s northeasternmost neighborhood, which was named after an early settler, British stonemason Thomas Cully. I arrived for a dinner party last sum- mer to find myself facing a barn in the midst of a rural residential neighborhood not far from the Portland International Airport. Rows of vegetables stretched away to a distant fence, a few goats ate weeds growing near the gravel driveway, and I could hear chickens clucking. Was this the supper club or an urban farm? It turned out to be both. Before I had a chance to explore, Stacey Givens, the chef and owner of The Side Yard Farm & Kitch- en, and Chris Starkus, the chef at Port- land’s Urban Farmer steakhouse, stepped out of the barn to welcome me. The two had competed in a 2015 episode of Food Network’s reality cooking show Chopped, which Givens won, and this night they were collaborating on the dinner. As we walked to a row of picnic tables behind the barn, they explained that the produce and herbs at the farm, which has been in operation since 2009, were sold to many local restaurants, and every- thing for the evening’s meal was sourced from its fields, from local artisans or from Starkus’ rooftop garden. The lamb came from a neighborhood farm and the flavorful focaccia bread had been baked FEB RUARY 2017 A L A SK A B E YON D 107 ABM 02.17 Here & Now_Portland.indd 107 1/19/17 10:04 AM